Be sure the unit is UNPLUGGED!
Open the case by unlatching the two front latches. You will see the TORPEDO that looks like a long, white cylinder. There are a few phillips screws holding this in place. One screw is on the bottom of the case holding the torpedo in place. The other, smaller screw is on to of the torpedo at the exhaust side. That is all you need to loosen the torpedo.
The wiring is generally two-four WIRE NUTS that will free the torpedo to be lifted out. It is good to know how to “Field Repair” your units. We designed these units to be repaired without sending them back to us. As you know the cost of shipping is significant, and the delays means you are short on machinery. However, there should be nearly no reason to send in the unit. Learning how to access the torpedo is basic training for you and something to expect. Over time, all machines will have some kind of minor failure. When taking wire nuts off, color or number wire groups for reassembly later.
The fuse is located at the outside back of the unit. Unscrew the cap and replace the fuse with a 5-8 amp fuse if it is blown.
The most common failure with be one of the ozone production blades. In our shop, this is a 15 minute repair at most. With a little practice, you will be able to do the same. We can send you a blade for a few dollars, and you can be at full operation in short order.
Taking out the Torpedo
You will find One Phillip Screw at the bottom of the case, and one small phillips screw at the INSIDE TOP (Front) of the torpedo. These are the two screws that will free the unit.
But, you need to FIRST take the WIRE NUTS off the wires so they will allow the torpedo to lift out without interference. The torpedo has two set of two wires connected to the power by the wire nuts. One set for the ozone section and one set for the fan. As noted before, diagram or take good pictures of these connections.
The bottom screw may be tight, but it will unscrew counterclockwise. Be ware that replacing this screw means it must be lined up. We use something like a mail to position the hole and then put the screw in once aligned.
The torpedo lifts out from the back (fan side) and the fit may be tight. Some times, the debris guard screws on the back end of the unit may interfere. If so, take out the top two screws from the outside of the unit. Life the torpedo up from the fan side and pull free from the hole in the front.
If you feel resistance, be sure the small screw in the top front is out (See top image). There only two screws max holding the torpedo in place. Once the torpedo is free, you can complete most repairs in short order.
Should you need to send the unit into our shop, send the torpedo only. However, we are confident that once you see the efficiency of the design, sending in your unit should not be necessary. Besides, the greatest hazard we see in unit problems happen in shipping.
THE FAN is located at the back (or wide end) of the torpedo. Earlier models were a round galvanized fan, and more recent units are a frame-mount motor with blade. Either way, remove the screws (2 or 3) holding the fan in place. If the problem is the fan is not working, we ask that you test the motor outside the unit. Find an electrical cord you can cut. Use the two available screw nut to attach the two wires of the fan to the AC cord. Secure the fan to run freely and plug in the cord. If it works, the problem is blade interference. If it doesn’t work, the fan is bad and should be replaced. You can see the fan through the back (see picture left). Align the blade so there is no interference, and you can adjust the fan forward and backward on the shaft as necessary.
The Ozone Tray in inside the torpedo, and is held in place on ONE SCREW located on the side of the torpedo. Remove the screw, and the ozone tray will pull freely from the torpedo. You can test the unit the same way we tested the fan. Connect the two wires to the AC cord with the available wire nuts. There is a risk of shock if you touch exposed wires or the ozone plates. Place the unit (transformer side down) on a non-conductive surface. The ozone blades will be on the top. With the two wires connected to the AC cord, the system will work just fine, but do not run it long for obviously ozone reasons.
Working blades will give off a blue glare/static look. It is best seen in low light. If a blade is not working, replace it by trading blades. If two blade in the same set are not working, this could be a transformer. Trading blades will tell you if the you have two bad blades or a bad transformer. See troubleshooting below.
Reassembly is the reverse of what you did to take it apart. As far as we are concerned, the final stage of restoring the wiring is the more exacting process. If you are not familiar with wiring, use colored tape to indentify the wires that connect to one supply line, and another color to indentify wires connecting the the other supply line. If you make a mistake, the fuse may blow, but you will not hurt the system.
Troubleshooting
If the UNIT WILL NOT TURN ON, check the FUSE located on the back end of the unit. Replace this fuse with a similar fuse. If the fuse continues to blow, there is an electical issue with the torpedo, like a short of time kind. Visually inspect wiring for signs of shorted wires.
If the FAN DOES NOT WORK, the most common cause that it is touching a surface. It does take much to prevent the fan from starting. With the torpedo out, examine if the fan is turning freely. It may need to be properly aligned. A wire may be obstructing it, or it may be touching the ozone tray.
If ONE OZONE BLADE does not work, it will need to be replaced. Contact our office for a new blade. When installing, clean it with alcohol to get all oils off the surface.
If TWO BLADES in one set do not work, it could be: 1) both blades are bad, or the transformer supplying it has gone bad. Detect a bad transformer by exchanging blades with another set. If the same problems occurs, it is the transformer. If the blades do not work in the new position, the blades are bad. To replace a transformer, you will need to de-solder and solder in a new transformer. This is the most difficult of all repairs, but not that difficult.